Saturday, November 21, 1998

Weekend in Petchabun (Pet-cha’-boon)
Koh Samui 1999
(Quaker girl dances the Ramwong)
One Saturday morning we found ourselves (My husband, myself and our Thai driver ‘Sue’) driving towards ‘upcountry’ (defined as anywhere outside of Bangkok) to attend the Buddhist priest ordination of our driver’s cousin. We had not really made any coordinated plans, although the three of us had individual ideas of what we would do. The information we had wrested from the driver was sketchy and seemed to change from day to day.
Al was out late the previous evening and had arisen early to get in 18 holes of golf. As such he was tired and after downing some carry out from Burger King fell into a deep sleep. I could not go to sleep in the car as I watched in horror for two hours as our driver played ‘chicken’ with the oncoming traffic on a stretch of road that was under construction and therefor down to only one lane. Luckily, the road shoulder was generous and in not-too-bad condition. We could veer off onto the shoulder when the traffic going the opposite direction ‘won’ the game of chicken. Throughout the ordeal my husband slept peacefully.
Sue had removed the headrests so that we would have a better view from the back seat. I was not grateful for this at first but when the normally flat scenery became mountainous in the distance it did improve the view.
After a several hours, we arrived in a small suburb of ‘Petchabun’ (north and east of Bangkok) which I dubbed ‘Sueville’. The reason for this being that of the 15 houses in the village 11 of them were occupied by Sue’s various relatives. First we were led into his mother’s house. She was a short, heavy-set jolly woman as all mother’s should be. We sat on some unbelievable uncomfortable and beautiful Chinese couches and were given cola’s after turning down water, tea and whiskey. All the fans in the town must have been brought into the house and directed on us to keep us cool. It was hot and I think they were self conscious about not having air conditioning. I walked over to more closely inspect the three treadle sewing machines. Evidently one of Sue’s uncles was a tailor.
We had assumed that we would have time to change into more festive clothes and wash up before the evening celebration. But as it turned out we were to be given the best room in town and had to go to the dinner that night in our shorts and t-shirts like everybody else. The best room in the village turned out to belong to Sue’s aunt whose son was to be ordained as a priest. She was recently remarried to a German man whom she had met in Pattaya. Her first husband, a policeman, had died in the line of duty some years previously. Thus, she was allowed to add a small house onto the back of the Sueville police station. The house had a decided German influence. Allan reluctantly agreed to staying in the new air conditioned room after being told for the umpteenth time that Petchabun proper was too far away over the mountains. The setting of Petchabun was one of a fertile valley bordered by scenic mountains on three sides. As we waited for the festivities to get underway, Sue entertained us with the story of his 2 hour predawn bus trip to school along the road we were travelling.
We were moved outside where numerous tables of eight were set-up for the dinner that night. All the fans from inside were dragged outside and aimed at us again. We watched as someone took some wire cutters to the utility pole in front of us. As best we could figure they were trying to wire up the stereo. Each table had a bottle of pop, two bottles of still water, two of carbonated water and two bottles of Mekong whiskey.
We met Sue’s brother, son and his wife and her two sisters and their mother. And his 90 year old grandfather and the cousin who would be ordained the next day. This cousin was dressed in a robe of white lace and his head was shaved. He came over and spoke to us in English. Blaring music came from the stereo system. We noticed that different blaring music was coming from a separate set of speakers to the east of us. This turned out to be a mobile moving theater unrelated to our party. A whole outdoor theater was unloaded from a semi-trailer (except for the commercial projector) and people came from near and far to sit on their straw mats and watch Thai movies. The noise was deafening.
Since I was pregnant they brought food to us the same time that they fed the children. I felt embarrassed eating before the adults but finally decided it would be better not to embarrass my hosts by refusing their hospitality. I watched as a baby was passed around a table in front of us. I estimate that the baby made about two revolutions in five minutes. High chairs and baby buggies aren’t really popular in Thailand (or Asia I believe) as there is almost always a pair of extended-family arms to receive that baby while the parents want to eat.
Two policemen ambled across the street and sat down and helped themselves to food. We found out later that they were cousins.
After eating we took a walk down to a little bridge for a little relief from the noise. It can get terribly dark in the country. We had forgotten that after living in the suburbs of Bangkok. None of the stars were familiar.
The evening’s ceremony consisted of a few monks chanting in one of the houses. Parts of it were extremely beautiful and reminded us of some Irish mouth music we had once heard.
We turned in and even though our bedroom was in the back of the house it was still quite loud. The air conditioner hum was a welcome layer of white noise over the racket outside. Every time I woke up it seems the movie theater was still roaring away.
The next morning we were treated to a German frustuck (breakfast) complete with worst and bread hot from the bread machine. We donned our party clothes and started off at eight o’clock in the morning with the rest of the procession. The wat (temple) was a few miles away so we went in cars. The cousin priest-to-be rode in the back of a pick-up truck with a large parasol protecting him from the sun. We had to wait as a herd of cows was led from one pasture, across the road to another pasture.
Three monks were to be ordained as priests that day. The one before us appears to be the wealthiest and the one behind our group seemed to be the poorest. We made this deduction from the contrast in attire, musicians and offerings. I admired Sue’s females relative who had dressed up in Thai silks or cottons. Allan admired Sue’s 90 year old grandfather who was resting by the wall to the wat. He was squatted down sitting on his hauches heels to the ground. You try it.
The group began to move clockwise around the outside temple. A cool breeze from the nearby mountains was blowing in the glorious morning air. An offering package was given to me to carry to the temple and I noticed that the women in front of me were holding it high by their heads. I did the same not wanting to break with tradition when I realized that they were just using the gifts as sunshades. Thais admire light skin and therefore shun any attempt at a suntan. The offerings demonstrated that we really don’t need much. Monks own as little as possible, some robes, a bowl to accept food in and maybe a shoulder bag. Inside the gifts-wrapped in saffron saran wrap-was a bucket containing a travel size of laundry detergent, a can of condensed milk, a bar of soap, and a toothbrush and toothpaste. The richer groups presents was very similar but instead of a bucket there was a small cooler.
Our group danced round the temple three times. The traditional Thai dance is called the ‘Ramwong’. This is where you bend your fingers back until they hurt and then curl them around the other way as if you were going to make shadow birds on the wall. I had brought Al’s golf umbrella in case the sun became too much for me but it was appropriated for someone else (elderly and feeble – I assume).
I left my shoes outside before entering the wat. Sue’s wife, who speaks no English, motioned for me not to step on the temple threshold (VERY bad form) and then I sat on the floor inside making sure that my feet did not point at the Buddha statue or at one of the monk/priests performing the ceremony (a sign of disrespect). In Thailand feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body and therefor not something you want to point at a holy person. At the end of the service the three new priests exchanged their white clothes for saffron robes. Sue leaned over and told me that they even have to give up underwear! Simplify, simplify, simplify. I refused some incense sticks thinking the smell would not sit well with my pregnant belly.
During the lengthy ceremony when my legs started to go to sleep we got up and went outside. We wandered over to what must be a meditation pond complete with stocked fish. A little shelter house was built out over the water and the cool exquisite breeze continued into the late morning. We could have stayed forever. We got back to the ceremony just at the tail end of the chanting. The three new monks waited a little bit outside the temple and people put cash donations hidden in incense into their shoulder bags. Since I had refused the incense sticks Al just had to plunk the cash in undisguised. Pictures were being taken of the new monks with various family members. Sue’s new German uncle motioned for his wife to put her arm around her son. I guess he didn’t know that monks are not allowed to make eye contact with women much less touch them.

Monday, October 26, 1998

Marathon Drive to the North of Thailand

Chaing Mai 1998
17 October Thru 25 October
(Please not the weird food cravings. I was ‘late’ but in denial)
Most people from Bangkok either fly or ride the train to the Northern Thai city of Chiang Mai. They have their chauffeur drive separately because Chiang Mai is a major shopping city for handicrafts, woodcarvings, textiles and baskets. This leaves a car free to be filled with packages. We decided to leave very, very early and sleep in the backseat while our chauffeur drove what we expected to be about an 8 hour trip. The main attraction for me was going north to cool mountain weather. I really haven't wanted to acquire ANYTHING since packing up the house alone earlier this year. Even in a tiny Dutch house, 10 years of accumulation adds up.
It wasn’t the high season hadn't started yet because the monsoon was technically not yet over but this was the only week that Al could squeeze in a vacation.
5 1/2 hours after leaving home we stopped at a temple in Nakorn Nayak. It was a Saturday, so there were lots of visitors to the Wat(a Thai Temple). Some were bowing to the golden Buddha statue holding sticks of smoking incense. The respectful form of greeting in Thailand is the 'wai'. You put your hands up like you are going to blow your nose and bow a little. Other visitors were shaking wooden cans with numbered sticks in them. One of the sticks would pop up and that would be the number of fortune paper they could pick up elsewhere.
Before lunch we stopped at Sukothai, an old historical city. All that remains of the old city are extensive ruins. We clambered around some terra cotta brick temples in a park. Many Buddha's sat in alcoves with just the pointy headdress poking out the top. Other German, Belgian and Portuguese tourists were viewing the park by bus and bicycle. It was not cooler yet. In fact it was still uncomfortably hot. I don't know how the bicycle tourists stood the stifling heat. We partook of some 'fast food' at the park, dried beef, chicken fried rice and ‘practiced’ handicraft shopping around the few stalls by the open air eating area. The typical eating arrangement in Thailand is the 'food court' which is just a bunch stalls selling various kinds of goodies.
Al's secretary had given us a discount coupon for a resort hotel in Chiang Mai. We were not too disappointed when we found out that it was full because it was also under restoration. My map (Nancy Chandler's 12th edition) showed a teak-hut bungalow hotel not too far out of the city so we headed that way. Please note our driver is a CB radio addict (probably from years on the road) and he was querying over the radio for directions. Al and I were looking at the map, where the hotel was OBVIOUSLY to the south of the city and the driver headed east and then north. Al bullied him into the passenger seat and I navigated. It was getting dark and we were tired and impatient.
Chiang Mai Riverside Villa is hands down the most romantic and primitive place where we have EVER stayed. We checked in and sent the driver off to find a guesthouse for himself. Al's company sets a per diem for driver's when they take you on vacation so that they can stay and eat comfortably. After hanging out in the room awhile- Al had brought his computer helicopter simulator to play with on his laptop while I poked Kleenex in the holes in the screens so more bugs couldn't get into our room. This was pretty silly considering the huge gaps in the floorboards- We made our way across extensive dock walkways to the open air restaurant. An unusually marked tortoiseshell cat snuggled up to me and we enjoyed a very high quality dinner starting with a spicy seafood salad, the sour part of the salad was quite complex because of the addition of tamarind. Northern food is supposed to be more sour than Bangkok food. In Bangkok it is reputed that they add palm sugar to EVERYTHING. New age Chinese music was piped through the whole complex adding to the exotic charm.
Our driver could not believe we were staying; a) in such a mosquito infested dump b) so far away from the city. I guess romance is in the eye of the beholder. We tried to talk him into taking a holiday in the city and leaving us to our own devices but he would have none of that. He was here to protect us (from ourselves?) and would feel he'd neglected his duties by not going with us. We would have really like the privacy but what can you do?
After a wonderful night, with the fan running the whole time and a mosquito coil burning most of the night; Note our bed or pallet had a mosquito net we woke refreshed with not one mosquito bite. Breakfast was included with the room. Our host pressed us into ordering yet another of his lemongrass and something else tea concoctions. We munched our toast and fruit looking out into a bright and beautiful day. Al had really hoped the night before that we would enjoy some rain but no luck. There was a tiny bit of lightening at dusk but it petered out pretty quickly.
On Sunday we started shopping. There are many craft villages in the environs of Chiang Mai but we decided to start with a road that could be called 'factory row'. Before lunch we hit a Bronze and Jade place, a huge teak furniture shop, a ceramic factory specializing in Celadon and a cotton textile store. Lunch was at an unremarkable tourist place. The cotton shop had huge 'fixed price' signs so I did not even bother looking.
Tired of shopping we headed off to explore a nearby cave. It sounded good to me because caves are usually cool. We walked up and up a marigold lined stairway with a huge serpent design banister. A man rented us a flashlight and we started down, down many steps to the floor of the cave. Big Buddha statues sat in lit alcoves. The walls were very smooth and the stalactites & mites seemed very old and worn down. Our driver tried his CB radio in the cave but could not get any reception even with his oversized antenna.
One scenic drive to the south of Chiang Mai is said to be cooler because it is more mountainous. We headed that way and towards two bungalow resorts marked on my map. As they both charged admission to their park like grounds we persevered on to another resort we kept seeing signs for. Belle Villa is run by RCI and has an English village feel to it. Stunning mountain views are everywhere you look. We could see a storm rolling in behind the hills but it never really made it to us. At dinner Allan told the waiter (in Thai!) that he really liked very spicy food. I ordered a ceasar salad. We both were happy. The next morning we enjoyed a very English breakfast and then headed off on the scenic (and hopefully cool) drive. Getting to Samerng was more than half the fun and we careened through windy jungle sided roads. We lunched at an absolutely wonderful bungalow resort. They had a tropical mountain garden to one side and real honest to god working waterfall to the other.
I insisted that we stop at a butterfly and orchid farm. Al wasn't really sold on the idea until he saw a tank full of live scorpions. A little old man waved me over and pointed out a very ugly caterpillar. It looked like what as a child I called 'tobacco worms' but without the multicolored knobs. Then the old man picked up three huge moths and set them on my shirt.
The Lonely Planet guidebook went on and on about a restaurant called JJ's so we went there for chocolate cake at tea time. Bakery items are hard to come by in this part of the world and it seems that Chiang Mai has more than it's share of good western food. But maybe because of it's size it is just easier to seek out. After being restored by our tea we made our way towards the market area. On the way we found a 'beanie gecko' store, a hemp clothing shop and much much more. The prices were so incredibly low that it was hard to want to bargain but of course that is part of the fun and we would never want to offend any shopkeepers by breaking with protocol.
Exhausted by shopping and cheered by the site of a sidewalk café we stopped for a drink at dusk. Little girls in ethnic costumes were trying to ply their wares on the street corner. The silver studded headdresses looked incredibly hot to me. I do understand sacrificing comfort for fashion but this was definitely over the top. An Australian couple beside us struck up a conversation. At first I was suspicious of all their questions but it turned out they were psychologists (he for a prison, she for juvenile delinquents) and they were very curious about our expat life style. It never occurred to us that we were interesting for this fact alone. Everyone we know is an expat and so it doesn't seem very remarkable to us. Although we do turn to each other a lot when wonderful things happen (which they do A LOT) and say 'What have we done to deserve all this?' It's like getting something for free, we certainly don't feel like we've earned it.
Remarkably at the restaurant we chose we met our host from the Chiang Mai Riverside Villa. He had fed us so well before that we just went with his recommendation. Evidently he works at the teak hut place only on the weekends and the rest of the week he's at this restaurant.
The next morning we headed towards the 'baskets' of Hang Dong after withdrawing the maximum from our account at an ATM. We were relying solely on our Nancy Chandler map now since experience had told us we could trust it but ended up in 'Ban Tawhi' a wood carving village instead of the basket place. I have never seen my husband in such a buying frenzy before. Soon all of our small Baht bills were gone and I was waiting in the car with the air conditioning on while Al took the driver to buy a little teak spirit house. It would not fit in the car and would have to be shipped. Stuff was so cheap it was very hard not to buy things. This is the kind of thing that you find at Pottery Barn. One shop had wonderful antique Burmese gongs but all the good ones were sold. We have a perfect place on our house for one but it will just have to wait.
I really wanted salty French fries for lunch so we made our way to an Irish place recommended by the Lonely Planet guide. The food was not disappointing. Before setting off on route #118 to Chiang Rai (another city about 3 hours to the north) we bought a king size quilt we had seen earlier and decided we really had to have. Route #118 is the 'short cut' to Chiang Rai as there is a more scenic road as well. I woke up after my post lunch nap in the car to a road lined with basket shops. True to my nature I walked along and fell in love with the most expensive US12.50 (and beautiful!) one in the place. The guy would not bargain, I think probably because I was so obviously rich since I was traveling with my chauffeur. So it is not true that if you speak Thai the price goes down. When we stopped to get gas Al got his usual ice cream bar. It looked really good to me so I asked for one too. He said, ‘maybe you are pregnant. You never eat ice cream.’
After trying a couple of hotels in Chiang Rai we settled on a nondescript place. Chiang Rai is very small and quiet so we walked to a restaurant mentioned in the tourist literature. We got a little lost and met up with some another English speaking tourist who was also lost. She was very young and her head was shaved bald. She was dressed entirely in black. She tried to show us where she thought we were on our map. After turning the map right side up I convinced her as to our location. We finally found 'The Golden Triangle Inn' which turned out also had accommodation. The English language menu had a terrific explanation of a Thai meal. Most of the other tables seemed to be full of small tour groups.
After reading about Hill Tribes in the Insight Guide I did not wish to visit any. I am sure that such a trip would rile my barely concealed outrage at exploitation of indigenous people. But that is what you do in Northern Thailand and Al and the driver wanted to go.
Wednesday morning Al received a fax from his secretary at the hotel that outlined the rules for a car rally we were participating in the following weekend. The rules were in Thai and the driver was given instructions to translate them. As he was feeling a little car sick (Al was driving today and the chauffeur was in the back seat reading) the translation would have to wait. Al wanted to go to a remote mountain village known for it's Chinese inhabitants. Some Chinese fled to this Thai village after the communists took over China. The drive was more scenic mountain ways. The village was a dusty collection of shops selling dried cherries, preserved fruits and teas. As soon as we parked two adorable little boys pressed their noses against my car window and started begging. The prices were even more unbelievable low than before. Prematurely aged women kept dragging me to their stalls or asking me to pay them for having my picture taken with them. I couldn't bring myself to bargain for anything. When I bought some tea I thought the lady said 400 baht so I countered with 300. Luckily the driver was there so he said the price is 40 baht (US 1) so I just paid. It is probably about one kilo of loose tea. We refused samples of the brewed tea for hygiene reason but could not resist the preserved sour fruit samples.
We made it to the most northern city in Thailand for lunch. There was a border crossing to Burma here. We couldn't find anything resembling a restaurant -just the usual assortment of noodle carts and vats of breaded and deep fried insects. Finally we spied a covered place by the river where we sat and watched first a man and then a snake swim across the muddy brown river. Now it was my turn to go into a buying frenzy. The sidewalks are lined with stalls that sell loose 'gems'. I thought I would risk buying a small sapphire for US20 or so. If it turned out to be cut glass I would still have a pretty stone. When the lady started the bidding at US7.25 I decided to buy a pretty green stone as well. Who knows what it really is? I'll have them mounted as soon as I can find a jeweler I can trust. That probably won't be until Christmas in the US.
After leaving Mae Sai and the Burmese border we took a leisurely drive back towards Chang Rai. This route took us to through the Golden Triangle once noted for its opium and heroine production. However, the Thai government has successfully eradicated the production of opium by getting the hill tribes to grow alternative crops which still managed to provide a reasonable income. An impressive part of the drive was a journey along the Mekong River with Laos on the opposing riverbank. Even here far from the sea the river is very broad and quite majestic.
We had seen a resort on the way about 1 hour south of Chiang Rai and decided to get a head start on our way home by staying there that night. Al was at the wheel and the driver was trying again to read the map (not a strong point for Thais) but finally we arrived at the resort. It was very nice but all we really needed was a clean and comfortable bed. We took a dip in the pool despite the chilly air before heading to the resort's one restaurant. Very tired we decided to be lazy and order the buffet. Big mistake. There was a very small selection and it was cold. Since the buffet was only US3.50 (and we were crazy foreigners anyway) we ordered chef salads that had an interesting and quirky Asian interpretation --sliced hot dogs (!) I wanted a chocolaty gooey dessert but they brought the bill when we asked for the menu again. So we gave up.
The driver was unable to find a room for the night so he had slept in the car. So Al drove and let him sleep in the back. Before nodding off he said 'don't you want to take the pretty way?' Of course. Always. It turned out to be a four hour trip over rudimentary roads through breathtaking scenery. The driver woke up and turned on his CB and began crunching chips noisily behind us.
Back at Chiang Mai I wanted some more salty French fries at McDonalds. There was great people watching at McDonalds in Chiang Mai. We decided the two beautiful scantily clad girls were speaking Hebrew and Al decided then and there that one day he would like to visit Israel.
We hit a few more shops on factory row, more Celedon and antiques. And then went to an umbrella and fan making village. It was very touristy and we were very tired. Although the last pottery shop we went to had lots of large, unusual & beautiful pieces. And I manage to buy four yards of hand loomed lime green cotton with a pastel diamond pattern in it. The driver had called and made a tentative reservation at yet another teak house hotel for us. We were heading towards it when he said, 'Why waste your money? Let's drive home tonight.' That would give us Friday free before starting the car rally early Saturday morning. This gave us a perfect excuse to visit Auchan (they have Carrefour's in Bangkok but we haven't seen this particular French supermarche by us) to stock up on car food.
The first part of the drive was pretty slow and awful. The road was only two lanes and under construction most of the way. And full of very big truck trailers which had to be passed. Al said the only time he had been as terrified was on the incredibly fast night sailboat race crossing he made of the English Channel where the rail was buried under water most of the time. But eventually the road turned into a divided highway and we got home four hours earlier than expected.
Our maid managed to wash all of our laundry. We packed again to leave early the next morning on a car rally organized by Allan's personnel department. One might question the sanity of participating in a car rally beginning in Bangkok -- with the terrible reputation traffic has here and all. Well the driving was not the insane part. The rally was organized into several timed legs where we had to search for spray painted letters on trees or fence posts at certain mile markers. That we could do. But on the legs with questions in Thai we were hopeless --even though we had the driver and Al's secretary along. The secretary has a very excitable personality and well, the driver had to drive. 200 participants in 50 cars stopped for lunch at one Esso gas station. I can only describe the food as 'trough' quality. The rally ended in a golf resort (here I use the word loosely) in Kanchaniburi. I took a nap by the pool while Al played 9 holes of golf with his secretary. The awards dinner went on interminably. We found out we placed 37th due mostly to our inability to answer riddles in Thai. Go figure. That night we had our own little cabin with the hardest bed either of us has ever experienced (and remember we've travelled in Germany).
The next morning we had an early tee time. Al bought more golf balls-good ones for him, old used ones for me. So for the entire morning we enjoyed the decadent luxury of riding around in a golf cart with our two caddies. We took the cooler from the car so if it was a hole without a snack bar we still could have a cold drink if we wanted. I played most of the holes. Trying to hit the ball off of uneven grass is very different than swinging at it on Astroturf over concrete with the highest rubber (learning) tee imaginable -- like I do at the driving range. I had a couple of good shots but still have a ways to good. Sand and water don't really intimidate me but when I stare at a 300 yard fairway I get very very nervous.
Once again life with Allan proves to be 'not boring'. He's off to the Philippines and I am going to try and take it easy for awhile.

Tuesday, September 15, 1998

Phuket (10-14 September 98)



(Unwittingly we took a beach holiday during the monsoon season)
Thursday
I practiced golf in the morning at the nearby driving range. This has really become fun since I am finally keeping my right shoulder down through my swing. Sure makes a difference - now I am getting good contact with the ball. It makes either a nice thwack or pock sound.
After researching our resort hotel on the internet -- it appears that it is not a hotel but a condominium. Guess I should take some food and tea making stuff.
My friend – also named Nancy -- called before I left. I would have rather gabbed than pack (I used an old 'for the beach' packing list). At the last minute decided to take my golf clubs.
I had the maid carry the bag downstairs where I added the guide books to the ‘to be packed’ pile. She and the chauffeur argued over who was going to carry my bag to the car. Like two little kids they each held a handle and said 'no! let me'. I said, 'You're NOT arguing over who is going to carry my bag.' Let the chauffeur do it.'
The airport logistics were rather complicated. Al was coming in from the Phillipines. I met Al's flight and then we proceeded to our check in VERY EARLY. Thai Airways took our bag and two golf bags (on free frequent flyer tickets!) no problem. We waited in an airport restaurant where we ordered spicy seafood salad.
On the flight I couldn't stop worrying about some consulting I was to do in a few weeks in Hong Kong and Singapore. I didn't have the training material yet and I still needed it to prepare for the trip.
A pretty sorry taxi at the Phuket airport met us. The roads aren't that good. The rough road was accentuated by the non-existent shock absorbers in the cab. It is a rather long drive from the airport in the North to Karon beach where we were staying on the West coast of the island.
Over-friendly help at the condo checked us into a 10th floor sea view condo. I asked for a non-smoking room. I just got a blank smile and a, 'What's that'? We didn't notice at first that we had twin beds. We were not very happy about that but also not willing to go through the rigmarole of changing rooms. So we just pushed to bed together.
It was fairly late but we decided to explore the immediate area on foot. Desperately aggressive shopkeepers tried to get us to buy from them. We declined. The girls in all the bars we passed all yelled 'Hello & Welcome' at us but we just walked by them.
Friday morning
We were served breakfast by a pretty little transvestite. I really liked his/her white rayon top from India. He/she had a really nice manicure with a deep burgundy polish. And I am pretty sure it was wearing hair extensions. There were very few customers in the restaurant and all the waiters hovered around us. Al finished before me despite having the full cooked breakfast(read fry-up). I had the European breakfast (roll & coffee). I was so astounded I was unable to speak as they took my plate away before I was done.
Before we could walk very far at all a man offered to rent us a jeep. So we plunked down 2400 baht (US$60) for four days for a little red 4WD Suzuki with airco. If we liked we could exchange it for a big American jeep the next day.
We took off in the jeep to explore the South side of the island. Al found 'Jimmy’s lighthouse' evidently a rather famous place in sailing circles. They served the best limeade I have ever had.
Next we went to the popular tourist beach area called Patong. We don't like these noisy, stinky bar ridden places but we are not opposed to visiting them for a short time. This is the place to buy fake designer watches. At lunch I proposed we circle the islands many excellent restaurants ordering spicy seafood salad at each one for comparison purposes.
In the afternoon we checked out the Phuket Country club golf course. Al made reservations for the next morning and then we both went to the driving range. It was more expensive than the most expensive driving range that we go to in Bangkok and not as nice. Only the practice putting greens were much nicer than the one we use. Al could not resist adjusting my driver swing.
I can't remember the name of the restaurant that night but we ate outside in a kind of primitive Flintstones garden. A very pregnant calico cat took me for the cat lover I am and practically tried to jump on our table to eat the BBQ tiger prawns (500 grams for 500 baht about US$15). After I had shelled a few of the shrimp I asked the waiter to give the leftover heads and shells to the cat away from our table. That worked. She didn't come back to bother us until she had finished our leftovers. Just as we were done it started to sprinkle rain.
So we got back into the jeep and headed back into Patong. Parking was not easy and as soon as we were about 6-10 blocks from the car the rain came down in great pelting sheets. We took shelter under the awning of a seafood restaurant kitchen along with some other soggy tourists.
Saturday
Al had an early tee-time and I just sat around on the balcony enjoying the sea breeze, ocean noise and view while reading. In the late morning I ventured out and bought some flip-flops. It was really hard to find some that were NOT fake designer. Now I was prepared for a walk on the beautiful beach. After my walk I lounged by the pool until Al returned. The beach was so wonderful we went back there for some serious wading where a very huge wave stole Al's glasses, safety strap and all.
Then it was back to the Light House for a sundowner. The drive around the Southwest of the island was indescribably beautiful. Both the beaches (Club Med is there) and the inland scenery are spectacular.
Dinner was at a very large restaurant at a crossroads. We had to walk and walk down many wooden covered corridors to get to the dining room. The food was not as spicy as we would have liked. I guess they tone it down for the tourists. There were very few customers in the restaurant and all the waiters stood around watching us eat.
Sunday
The day started with brunch at one of the five hotels in an integrated resort near the airport. First we got the bottom of our shorts wet with some rogue waves while wading on the beach there and then the monsoon caught us before we could get back to the jeep. We spent most of the day venturing onto the mainland. We took a wrong turn but that only led us to a really cool waterfall. We also checked out the possibility of chartering boats from Sunsail.
We found the best restaurant that night. Andaman Seafood had the best BBQ seafood and the spiciest spicy seafood salad. When it started to monsoon we just moved a few tables deeper into the restaurant. There were a few other customers so we did not have the sole attention of all the staff. What a relief AND the food was good, and Thai and hot enough. No compromises for tourists.
Monday
This was our last day so we walked on the beach in the morning despite the ominous black clouds to the North. They did not hold idle promise. It really, really rained on us but we were in our swimsuits so it didn't matter. There was no sign of Allan's glasses by the wrecked Russian fishing boat on the beach where he had lost them. We studied the sand crabs (Al stomped behind them to make them jump-he even managed to catch a few tiny ones).
Back in Patong I bought myself a Topaz ring for a souvenir. Remember all those desperately aggressive shopkeepers? The girl tried not to take the jewelry back after I had tried it on. Her technique worked. Lunch was French fries and hamburgers at the miniature golf course. It was raining too hard for us to play. But that did not stop two Japanese girls from playing.
As we checked out of the condo we asked about purchasing one of the units. It was four times as much as we were willing to pay. This started us dreaming about retiring to this surprisingly clean and modern island anyway. But unfortunately it’s a too expensive island.

Wednesday, August 12, 1998



Dining in Paradise

Today is the Queens birthday in Thailand which is synonymous with Mother’s day. The only difference being that in Thailand it is a National holiday. This provides a well needed rest and a chance to prepare another correspondence to our friends in the rest of the world.

One of the treasures of being in the far east and especially in Thailand is the opportunity to experience many new sensations; two of the foremost being the senses of smell and taste. Whether enjoying a night out at a Chinese, Indian, Indonesian, or of course Thai restaurant, we continue to be confronted with aromas, sights, and tastes which are new. Surprisingly, one of my favorites is the company cafeteria.

Working in many different locations, I have had the chance to experience many a company canteen. However, most of these left one with a yearning to go elsewhere to eat at every opportunity. This is not the case at Philips Semiconductors in Bangkok. I don’t know if this is typical for Thai companies.

Philips in Bangkok employs just under 4000 persons which work in three shifts. The factory is operational 24 hours a day 6 ½ days a week. To accommodate this mass, Philips has a large company canteen which is also open 24 hours a day. I try to limit my visits to once a day between noon and one o’clock.

The canteen has basically the form of a street market. There are two rows of stalls, one inside and one outside. Each of the stall is, I think, independently operated under some controls from Philips. In addition to the stalls there is also a very small grocery and video store. The grocery reminds me somewhat of the old corner grocer I remember vaguely from my childhood only smaller.

One may eat either inside or out, each having its own pros and cons; outside is the heat, although there is an awning over the eating area. This provides a quiet and somewhat peaceful environment. While, on the other hand, the inside cafeteria is cooler being air-conditioned. However inside, you are surrounded by four blaring television sets. Fortunately, all of the TV’s are on the same Thai channel.

The process of getting your food is typical in Thailand. You first go to the coupon counter where you exchange ‘real’ money for food coupons. Usually I will change around 100 Baht ($2.50), which will last me a little more that two days. Then you go shopping!

I usually start at the fried noodle stand where I order ‘ma mie’ (15baht), which is a drier form of the curly noodle soup with which you might be familiar. You may choose to have some dumplings, squid, shrimp or other morsel added for flavor. While this is being prepared, I either go outside to grab some barbecued pork (20baht) or choose some sort of vegetable curry from a sort of deli counter (5 baht). If I have chosen a vegetable I will also get a plate of rice (free) to go along. After finding a space at a table, which is sometime difficult, I set down my plates and continue shopping. I may grab a soft drink (7 baht), milk (20 baht) or coconut milk. Then it’s back to pick up my ‘ma mie’ and utensils. I will usually add some spice to the noodles such as crushed red pepper (hot), and peppers in vinegar (sour). Almost all Thai meals are accompanied with four additional tastes, sugar (sweet), crushed peppers (hot), vinegar (sour) and fish sauce (salty). There are also two types of utensils to choose from, either chop sticks or a fork and spoon. I usually opt for the chop sticks, while most Thai use a spoon and fork. The fork is used to scoop food onto the spoon which is always held in the right hand. The choice of hand is important as traditionally the left had is used to perform certain less sanitary functions.

After we have finished I usually have either a scoop of ice cream (6 baht) or half of a freshly peeled pineapple (5 baht). These are consumed during the short walk back to the office. This almost always totals around 40-60 baht or $1.25. However, there are numerous variations possible with literally more than a hundred dishes to choose from. Also recommended are: pad Thai noodles (15baht), fried rice (13 baht), bean sprouts with fried soy bean curd(6 baht),. Vegetarian noodles(13 baht), fried bananas(1 baht ea.), papaya, spicy noodle salad, BBQ chicken (15 baht), BBQ fish(15 baht), spicy green beans(6 baht), fried egg, fish ball soup, chopped fried chicken over rice(15 baht), duck over rice, various Thai sweets and much, much more. In fact there isn’t a week that goes by without me observing something new on one of my colleague’s plates.

-Allan



Link to photos

Tuesday, March 31, 1998

Maids, Chauffeurs & The Big Move

03 April 1998

I guess it is again time for one of my rambling tales of living in the Far East. It has been a hectic past two weeks. Not only were there many important work related activities, but I also moved into our planned living quarters for the next two years, received the container with the contents from our home in Holland, and changed car & drivers.

The House

During the first two months of our two year planned stay in Thailand, I lodged in a serviced one bedroom apartment located on Sukomvit Road. Sukomvit is in the center of Bangkok, if one can say that Bangkok has a center. This bustling area was exciting to live in, although not all that pleasant due to the pollution, crowds of tourists, and additional heat generated by the mass of cars, air conditioners, and overall congestion.

These reasons contributed to our decision to take a home further from the center, as well as my desire to come home to a more serene environment after my hectic work day. The home, which we chose to rent, is located in a small suburb of Muang Ake, located northwest of Bangkok near Rangsit University. It is now around a 45-minute commute, given current traffic conditions. This is a little longer than the 30-minute commute from my previous location on Sukomvit Road. Curiously enough, the previous occupant of the house was my predecessor at work, Tim Cremer. So I have had the pleasure in relating the story of how I not only arrived in Bangkok to take over Tim’s job, but also managed in the process to also gain his home, car, driver, maid, and mobile phone.

The house is located in a pleasant and relaxing setting. While it is true that the street we live on is still cluttered with litter and other refuse - found almost everywhere in the Bangkok area - the view from the back of the house is very pleasant. We have a small backyard that has a 4-meter (12-foot) wide canal running its length. Beyond the canal is one of two local golf courses. The course behind the home, Muang Ake Vista, is unique, as it has full lighting, allowing play until around 10pm. This provides an ever-entertaining panorama with golfers and their caddy’s strolling by in the evening. Mornings are also pleasant as songbirds now awaken us, from outside our bedroom window. Opening the curtains reveals the green fairways with water sprinklers dousing the course. Also, I am convinced that the temperature in this setting is at least 5 degrees cooler than in the center of Bangkok. This may be overstated although I still believe it to be true.

The Big Move

I arrived at the house on the morning of Tuesday March 31st. I had been there previously for the house inspection with the Thai owners. Assisting me in the ‘unloading’ were my previous driver, Jack, my current driver Su (Pronounced Sue) and our maid Pah. We had borrowed one of the company vans in the morning, which was needed to move my belongings from the apartment in Bangkok. I had expected the container to arrive around 10am. However, at ten past 10 I received a disturbing call from the moving company’s representative stating that there had been an accident involving the container truck, and as such, there would be a delay of several hours. Impatient as I am and having no place to sit, I decided to go with Jack to the closest supermarket and stock up on essentials for the kitchen.

Jack and I arrived back at the house around 12:30pm and the 40 foot container arrived shortly thereafter. The crew foreman presented me with the bill of lading, which I was to inspect and check off during unloading. I then proceeded to look inside the steel container, as I wanted to inspect it’s capacity. Aside from curiosity, my primary intention was to envisage how much room we would have for acquisitions for the return trip. I was greeted by the disturbing scene of seeing all of one’s possessions reduced to an abstract art form composed of a mixture of white cardboard encased furniture surrounded by white and brown boxes. The 220 plus items were each numbered and further marked with some vague description of either the contents or the source, such as; ‘kitchen’, ‘bathroom’, ‘bedroom’, etc. Adding to the confusion was the fact that the labeling was in a hybrid text of Dutch-lish.

Accompanying the container was a team of around 15 young Thais wearing their moving company’s T-shirts. One part of the team removed their shoes and entered the house while the remaining group proceeded to the empty the container. Each numbered item was brought first to the door where the foreman and my self would check the box number. This was followed by indicating to which room each box should go. We designated one room as ‘storage’. The intention of which was to send the boxes that I did not want to have unpacked. Being outnumbered 15-to-1, I did my best in deciphering the script on each item and directing it to a general location. This process lasted around an hour and a half. There was included (of course!) a 20 minute break for a late lunch. At this juncture, all of the cardboard enclosed items were somewhere inside the house. We were now ready to proceed with a chaotic phase II of the operation. Now all 15 of the barefooted Thais were inside unpacking boxes, identifying furniture parts and attempting assemblage. This all occurring in about 10 different locations spread around the two-story home. I hurried from one location to another to instruct and assist in the process. After several hours the operation was complete, or at least as complete as it was going to be for a few weeks.

All in all, it went quite well with only a few miscues. For one, I managed somehow to have instructed that our heaviest piece of furniture, the dining room sideboard, was sent upstairs, thinking that it was part of a bedroom suite. I didn’t have the heart to have it brought back downstairs, and in any event it also was well suited as a linen cabinet in the upstairs foyer. Breakage was limited to a few glasses and the CD player portion of the stereo that didn’t seem to want to work anymore.* More disturbing was the leftover quantity of screws and other hardware. I hope all the furniture stays together.

(*Footnote: several weeks later I disassembled the CD player together with one of the visiting plant engineers, one Jochim Schober from Graz, Austria, and the player has worked ever since!).

Car & Driver(s)

Many expatriates in Bangkok are provided with a car and driver. This is largely due not to prestige but to the practicality of negotiating the Bangkok traffic and Thai style of driving. Initially, around a week after my arrival, I was provided with a Toyota Corolla 4-door sedan and a driver named Jakkowan. Jakkowan was immediately shortened to "Jack", nicknaming is the normal procedure in Thai culture. Nicknames or abbreviated names are given to virtually all Thais, as their full names can be long and difficult to pronounce. The use of nicknames is not just for use by the farang (foreigner), but is along used between Thais.

The primary job of the driver is to pick you up in the morning, take you home at night and provide transportation for your wife during the day. However, he is also always available to provide for other services. It is common practice to have drivers run errands for their ‘boss’ during the day. This may include anything from grocery shopping and having clothes repaired to paying bills and making other household arrangements. In this sense the driver provides the much greater role of mediator when dealing with many local Thai affairs. It is therefore important that you have someone that you can both trust and rely upon.

One example of the driver’s behavior was when I needed to have some photos from the Netherlands framed. I dropped them off at Robinson’s department store with instructions for matting and framing. Jack assisted me in my communications to the sales clerk. Jack then returned a week or so later to pick up the pictures. When delivering the pictures to me at the office, he insisted that I would not be pleased with the result. While the matting was not perfect, I would have found it acceptable. However, at urging of Jack, I was convinced that the work could be improved. So, Jack packed up the pictures and returned to the store to register my dissatisfaction. When he returned again a few days later to deliver the modified framed photos, all was indeed improved to my complete satisfaction. By using my driver to the fullest I was able to increase my state of contentment while having to expend very little personal effort.

For this extra service, it is the boss’s responsibility to look after and provide for the driver. The norm for a driver’s salary is in the area of 6000 baht per month or around 150 US dollars. This income is supplemented with a weekly tip (if earned) of a few dollars.

At around the same time as moving into the house, I was also able to take over Tim’s car and driver. It was not that I was dissatisfied with Jack, however there were other considerations that led me to the decision to change drivers. Fortunately, I was able to place Jack with a colleague of mine such that he would not have to be terminated and forced to seek new employment in the currently meager Thai economy.

My new (other) car was a Honda accord, which provided a little more interior room. Surasak, my new driver, had worked for Tim for the past four years. Surasak has the reputation of being a very good and reliable driver. The overriding factors in deciding to change drivers was Su’s familiarity with the environs around the new home, his strong recommendation of loyalty and trustworthiness from Tim, and his good relationship with the maid. Su speaks very good English (unusual for a Thai driver), as well as a smattering of Dutch, which I expect he also understands reasonable well.

Our maid or domestic is Soapah, whom we call "Pah". Pah is a full-time live-in maid. She is provided with her own quarters and a separate entrance to the house. She is in her early forties, which is older than many of the other domestics employed by expatriates. Unlike Su, Pah speaks and understands very little English. Despite this communications hurdle we manage quite well with non-verbal communications. Also this is an area where Su is able to make a significant contribution.

Soapah is responsible for cleaning the house, doing laundry, tidying the yard and looking after the dog (which also came with the house). She is very quiet and it seems that she appears only when we are in need of her. Most maids in Thailand also do all the cooking for the house. In the case of Soapah, we have been led to believe that her cooking skills or of a lower quality. This does not present a difficulty for us as we usually enjoy preparing our meals. I am sure however, that we will verify her qualities as a cook as we get to know her better.

The situation of having a full-time driver and maid is one with which we were initially uncomfortable. The idea of having servants is completely foreign to our upbringing and is not common in the cultures we have experienced up until now. However, we are making adjustments and now feel comfortable. The real challenge may come when it is time to leave Thailand and the extra benefits of living in this part of Asia. - Allan